I can’t believe it when I wake up every morning and I’m here. I do literally wake up and think what shall I do today… shall I snorkel, sup, surf or yoga! Which beach shall I visit, the rocky volcanic stone one or the sandy driftwood one. Shall I have coffee here or go to a cafe?! Shall I go find the dolphins today? Or go get smashed some more by the waves as I try again to surf!
I was out in the ocean this week at 7.30am and I was one of 4 out there! I was in the small waves and I got up for the first time alone, it was awesome. You suddenly understand how the waves are working, or actually you feel it. I was standing up and riding the “mini” wave and it seemed like I was in it forever, then once I thought that I decided I would have to get off as this can’t be right! Hahah! Need to grow some more guts from somewhere! It is a relentless sport and for an hour or two of being out there it’s only one wave that may make you want to get back out or one wave that makes all the wipe outs worth it. It’s incredibly social too, everyone sits on their boards waiting and you get into some awesome conversations, the funny thing is you can be in a deep and meaningful and then one of you (usually not me) starts paddling hard and then they are off! Only to reunite once they paddle back out!
Arms!!!!! Wow your arms! Burn burn burn! It’s like nothing you can imagine, and you can’t give up, your not in the bubble of the gym, a class where you can get out of a pose, your home or garden, you have to get to the waves and you have to get in! Your shoulders and arms ache, like a burning numb feeling, wet lettuces that just won’t go back to feeling like arms, your ribs are bruised and sore and your feet are cut from walking out over the rocks and catching them or coral when you fall!
It’s so fun though! I don’t think I will ever be that great but I have to say I’m pretty proud that I’m even doing it! It looks so easy and “cool” but it’s the hardest thing! They say golf is 70+% mental but I rate surfing even higher! Totally in owe of the kids and people who just are so at one With their boards and the surf, it’s breathtaking!
The thing I’ve learnt the most this week is that however perfect life may seem or however idilic the situation your in, you still have struggles, whether personal battles , external or just life hick ups! The biggest thing that my tiny time in the water being wiped out has taught me is… the more you struggle and panic the harder it all is and the longer the resolve takes, you do still get to the surface and you still get to paddle again but if you Just go with the breath of the waves, don’t pull on your leash to get you back to the surface just let the waves do it’s thing, it happens much smoother! So out of the water just let life’s wipe outs however big or small happen as in a very near moment the next wave will be there to catch and it will all be worth it!